By Dr. Heidi Harrington
Beaufort Memorial Plastic Surgery & Aesthetics
If you have acne scars or wrinkles that you’d like to make less visible, you may have considered dermarolling.
Considered a type of microneedling, this skincare option may help improve your skin from the comfort of your home.
It’s an exciting time for skin care, as we have a growing number of options that allow you to manage your skin; as with any other home-based treatment, dermarolling can be helpful, but it comes with certain risks.
Microneedling is a medical treatment performed by medical experts. During the procedure, a specialist uses a pen-like device to repeatedly inject 9-36 fine needles into the facial skin at a 90-degree angle. Longer needles penetrate a deeper layer of skin, focusing on the second layer, the dermis. This is where collagen and elastin fibers are located. These needles create tiny injuries to the dermis, stimulating the formation of new collagen. Ultimately, the extra collagen growth tightens your skin and improves the skin’s health.
Dermarolling, on the other hand, is not performed by professionals. You do it yourself at home. The technique uses a dermaroller, a special tool outfitted with rows of needles of the same length. As you roll the dermaroller across your face, the needles push into your skin, creating small wounds that encourage new growth. Some people also use dermarollers to help their skin better absorb skincare products, such as serums that contain growth factors or vitamins.
Microneedling and dermarolling are still fairly new offerings in skin care. We’re still finding new uses of these approaches, and I suspect their uses will only continue to grow.
Currently, some of the conditions that microneedling or dermarolling may help address include:
- Abdominal scars
- Acne scars, including boxcar scars
- Deep wrinkles
- Hair loss
- Stretch marks
If you experience any of these issues, a plastic surgeon can help you understand how microneedling, medical aesthetics or cosmetic surgery could refine your look.
Dermarolling safely
Because you perform dermarolling at home instead of inside a medical facility, this DIY treatment comes with an increased risk of infection. You can reduce your risk by practicing dermaroller safety.
- Clean your face — Before every in-home treatment, wash your face with a pH-balanced cleanser. You should also wipe 70% isopropyl alcohol on your face if using needles that are longer than 0.5 mm. After treatment, rinse your face with clean water.
- Follow directions — Read the directions that come with your dermaroller and follow them exactly. Talk with a skin professional if you need help understanding the treatment process.
- Sanitize the equipment — “You put your skin at immediate risk if you insert dirty needles into it,” Dr. Harrington says. “Soaking a dermaroller in 70% isopropyl alcohol for 10 minutes before and after use disinfects the equipment, cutting down your risk of infection.”
- Time your treatment — If you’re experiencing active eczema or acne or have an open wound or other skin issue, do not use a dermaroller. You should inspect your face for any open sores/wounds, like acne, and avoid dermarolling until the skin is fully intact in order to prevent infection.
- Use even pressure — Applying uneven pressure or pushing the dermaroller too hard can tear your skin. If this happens, you may worsen acne scarring or cause other permanent damage.
Along with these tips, don’t hide your dermaroller use. Instead, stay in touch with your plastic surgeon, dermatologist or other healthcare provider before any problems arise.
We can take action if your skincare routine causes problems, but it’s best not to wait that long. We can guide you toward an appropriate skincare routine and pinpoint what products to try out and which ones to avoid for long-lasting results.
To ensure you don’t overuse or misuse your dermaroller, stay in touch with your healthcare provider.
Dermarollers are maintenance tools, and when used properly, they provide a cost-effective way to make the most of microneedling and other treatment options.
Heidi Harrington, M.D., is a board-certified and fellowship-trained plastic surgeon with two decades of cosmetic and reconstructive plastic surgery experience. She sees patients at Beaufort Memorial Plastic Surgery & Aesthetics in Okatie.